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PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO COLOMBIA
Because Colombia's tourism infrastructure
is extremely underdeveloped, traveling here can be a bit tricky, especially if you don't speak Spanish (whereas, I will
be providing travelers with bilingual hosts). Except for Cartagena and some parts of the Atlantic Coast, many sections
of Colombia have seen only a trickle of foreign visitors in the last few decades (even though in 2006 Colombia had
2,000,000 visitors). Although tourists are generally treated formally and with polite curiosity, don't expect to
find an overwhelming amount of tourist information (again, I will be providing as much information I can get my hands on).
Remember that a visit to Colombia requires patience and a sense of humor. One of the best ways to prepare for
your trip to Colombia is on the Internet, where you will find plenty of useful information, especially from fellow travelers.
The following websites contain useful information about Colombia. Dedicated to adventure travel, this site provides
valuable country, etiquette, and excursion information. www.colombiaemb.org: Colombia's
embassy in Washington. A good place to start exploring the country.
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STAYING SAFE Colombia isn't the place to wonder off the beaten path, not even
in cities. Stick to neighborhoods you know are safe. NEVER resist an attempted
robbery—Colombian criminals can be armed and unpredictable. ALWAYS call a cab at night, especially if you have been drinking or are traveling alone. If your level of Spanish
is low or you are a woman traveling alone, I advise you to always call a cab to avoid being taken on a long and expensive
ride. Always make sure the cab door is locked to avoid an armed assailant hopping in at a stop light. DON'T
accept any drinks, drugs, or cigarettes from a stranger or someone you've just met; they could
be laced with an odorless drug that makes you lose your will while you are robbed. Also, it's best not to pick up
any papers or cash that someone walking ahead of you drops, as this can also be the same kind of trick. This is especially
important for women. These types of crimes are 'rare' but not unheard of.
TELEPHONE DIALING AT A GLANCE Colombia's phone system features a standardized
system of seven-digit local numbers with one (1) or two (2) digit area codes. To place a call from your home country to Colombia, dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 011 in Australia,
0170 in New Zealand, and 00 in the U.K.), the country code (57), the one-or two-digit Colombian city code (Bogotá 1,
Medellin 4, Cartagena 5, Pereira 61, Armenia 67, Manizales 69), plus the seven-digit local number. To place a
local call within Colombia, dial the one- or two-digit city code followed by the seven-digit
local local number. To call within a city, you only need to dial the seven-digit number.
FAST FACTS: Colombia American Express:
American Express offices are located in Bogotá at Calle 85, no. 20-32 (Tel: 1/593-4949). Business Hours:
Business hours vary significantly between urban and rural areas.
In Urban
Areas, businesses and banks are generally open between 8am and noon and then again between 2 and 6pm. In Bogotá, banks are supposedly open all day
between 8am and 4pm. Stores are generally open between 9am to 5pm, while department stores and large supermarkets generally
stay open until around 9pm. In
the countryside, businesses and stores are generally open fewer hours and don't necessarily stick to their posted schedules.
Also, many businesses close down or reduce their hours on Sundays and holidays.
Electricity:
Electric outlets accept U.S.-type plugs. Electricity in Colombia runs at 110 volts, so transformers
are not necessary for tourists from the U.S. If you are planning to use anything with a three-prong plus, bring an adapter,
as some establishments only have two-prong outlets. Embassies: In Bogotá: United States: Calle 22, Bis. 47-51
(Tel: 1/315-0811); Canada:
Carrera 7 no. 115-33, Piso 14 (Tel: 1/657-9800); Australia (consulate): Carrera 18 no. 90-38 (Tel: 1/636-5247 or 530-1047); United Kingdom: Carrera 9 no. 76-49; Piso 9 (Tel:
1/326-8300 or 317-6423 for visa information).
Emergencies: In Bogotá,
the police emergency number is 112. Another emergency number that works throughout the country is 123. Other good
emergency numbers to know: the Security Police (DAS; Tel: 153/0180-0091-9622); the Tourist Police (Tel: 1/337-4413 or 243-1175); and the police station in Bogotá (Tel: 156).
Hospitals:
Some of
the best hospitals in Bogotá are Clinica Marly, Calle 50, no. 9-67 (Tel: 1/570-4424, 572-5011, or 343-6600); Fundación Santa Fe, Calle 119, no. 9-02 (Tel:
1/629-0766 or 629-0477); and Clinica
El Bosque, Calle 134, no. 12-55 (Tel: 1/274-0577, 274-5445, or 649-9300).
Internet Access: You're never far from a cybercafe in Bogotá and other major urban centers. Small towns will
also generally have at least one (1) internet cafe. In rural areas, Internet access is hard to come by.
In my town of Obando Valle, you have up to 5 or more cybercafes. Connections
are generally fast and cheap. Expect to pay about COL$1,500 to COL$2,500 (US75¢–$1.50/38p-75p) per hour. Liquor Laws:
The legal drinking age in Colombia is 18, though laws are lenient. In urban areas such as Bogotá, Medellin, Cartagena, and Cali, you may be asked to show ID to get into upscale bars and clubs.
There are no laws against drinking in public, so if you are low on funds, feel free to open up a bottle of Aguardiente in the nearby park or plaza. Maps:
Maps of Colombia and Bogotá can usually be found in tourist offices,
though it's not uncommon for the tourist office to run out of maps. In Bogotá, you can also find high-quality
maps in La Pan Americana (www.panamericanaeditorial.com/almacenes) and most hotels. Newspapers & Magazines: National and local newspapers and magazines can be found in all cities and most towns. In Bogotá,
look for: El Tiempo and El Espectador; In Medellin look
for: El Mundo and El Colombiano; and In Cartagena look
for: El Universal. Semana: is
the most popular weekly magazine.
Unfortunately, there are few, if any, English-language publications in Colombia. Post Offices
& Mail: The postal system in Colombia is relatively efficient in large cities,
though the same can't be said for rural area. Servientrega DHL FedEx; and DePrisa are available in Colombia
for local and international shipping services, as is Avianca Airlines. While mail within Colombia is cheap, sending items
abroad is extremely expensive.
Restrooms: Bathroom quality varies, Expensive hotels,
restaurants, and shops generally have clean facilities and toilet paper. As long as you're 'polite', restaurant,
hotel, and store owners won't mind if you use their facilities. It's a good idea to bring your own toilet paper
and hand-sanitizer wherever you go, as budget establishments rarely have these items. Safety: Colombia is still far from being among the safest countries
in the world. Much of the rural countryside is still tightly controlled by armed groups and is thus inaccessible to
tourists. Travelers are advised to stick to well-touristed areas and keep up to date with the ever-changing political
situation to avoid problems. But if you take adequate precautions, you're more likely to have a run-in with common
street thieves than with guerilla or paramilitary factions. That being said, theft is a major problem in Colombia, particularly in cities. Never accept
anything (cigarettes, drinks, papers, food, and the like) from strangers, as it could be laced with Burundanga, an odorless,
colorless chemical that makes you lose your will, while the thief and his accomplice take you around the city, maxing out
your debit card at every ATM in sight. At night, always call a taxi (instead of hailing one on the street), as this
crime has been known to occur in taxis. Many
travelers who come to Colombia do so because of the wide-variety of drugs available. While you will probably see many
locals smoking marijuana, getting high off of inhalants, and even smoking crack on the streets, I strongly advise against
buying or doing drugs in Colombia. You can easily be set up by the "seller," who then turns you in to the
"police", who then extorts significant sums of money from you. If someone approaches you claiming to be a police officer and asks for your documents,
go to the nearest police station; never give your money or documents to someone claiming to be an undercover officer. Women traveling alone may want to dress modestly
to avoid unwanted attention from men. Colombia is still very much a "macho" country, and many men will think
that a woman traveling alone, particularly one dressed provocatively, is fair game. As an extra precaution, women should
call for a taxi rather than hailing it on the street; rapes by taxi drivers have been reported. (Though Ms. Perilla,
a woman, admits to traveling alone, has hailed taxis on the street throughout the country and always without incident.) Most tourists travel through Colombia without
any threats to their safety. To minimize your risk of being robbed, don't use flashy clothes or jewelry, stay away
from city centers at night, and keep your guard up, just like yuo would anywhere else. Smoking: Colombians smoke less than Europeans
but more than Americans. Most restaurants, hotels, shopping centers, bars, clubs and other establishments have a no-smoking
policy or a separate smoker's section. Make sure to ask if smoking is allowed before lighting up. Taxes: There is a 10%
tax on hotel rooms, and a 16% tax on food. Telephone & Fax: The best place to make calls and send faxes is in Internet
cafes. Public phones are confusing (with instructions in Spanish). There are many vendors on the street offering
"minutes" to cellphones and landlines for COL$200 to COL$400 (US10¢–US$20¢/5p-10p) per minute. Time Zone: All of Colombia
is 5 hours behind Greenwich mean time; Colombia does not observe daylight saving time. Tipping: In midrange and expensive restaurants, there is usually
a 10% tip included in the bill. It's not common to tip in budget restaurants or in taxis, so there's no need
to do so unless you're feeling generous (I encourage you to be 'generous'). These people are the ones who
really can use the tip money that they get. Have a good heart, and you will be treated like a king. Water: City water is usually
safe to drink, but in nonurban areas it's best to stick to bottled water.
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ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
A valid
passport is required to visit Colombia. Visas are not required if you are a citizen of the United States, the United
Kingdom, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, France, Germany, or Switzerland. You will automatically be granted
permission to stay in the country for 60 days upon entering Colombia. If you plan to spend more than 60 days in the
country, you will have to get permission from the Colombian Security Department (DAS) office in any departmental capital,
though most tourists do so in Bogotá. To receive this 30-60 day extension, you will need to deposit COL$60,400
(US$30/£15) to Bancafé (account #056-99020-3, code 103), and then present your passport, your plane ticket (showing
date of departure), four (4) color passport pictures (3cmX4cm), two (2) photocopies of your passport picture page, two (2)
copies of your passport entry stamped page, two (2) copies of the Bancafé deposit slip, and two (2) copies of your
plane ticket. The process usually takes 1 to 2 hours, but you will be given the extension on the spot. You can
repeat the process until you've been in the country 180 days. The Bogotá
DAS office, at Calle 100 no. 11B-27, Edificio Platino (Tel:
1/601-7200), is open Monday through Thursday 7:30am to 4pm and Friday 7:30am to 3pm.
If you stay in Colombia more than 60 days without a visa extension, you can be fined US$60 to US$1,600 (£30-£800). COLOMBIAN
EMBASSY LOCATIONS In the U.S.: 2118
Leroy Place NW, Washington, DC 20008 (Tel: 202/387-8338;
www.colombiaemb.org) In Canada: 360
Albert St. Ste 1002, Piso 10 K1R 7X7, Ottawa, ON (Tel:
613/230-3760; embajada@embajadacolombia.ca In
the U.K.: 3 Hans Crescent, London, SW1X OLN (Tel:
020/7589-9177; fax 020/7581-1829; www.colombianembassy.co.uk) In Australia: 101
Northbourne Ave., Turner, ACT 2601 (Tel: 02/6257-2027; fax 02/6257-1448) CUSTOMS Upon entering Colombia, you will be asked to complete a
Customs form detailing your personal effects. There is a regularly updated limit on cash and goods you may take out
of the country. Because of strict drug-trafficking laws, do not try to take more money out of Colombia than
you claim—at a minimum, this could result in heavy questioning. For more information regarding this limit, call
(Tel: 1/546-2200 or 457-8270). When leaving
the country, you must pay an airport departure tax of about COL$114,500 (US$57/£29), though this tax is often included
in your airline ticket. MONEY The Colombian peso is the official currency. Money is denominated in notes
of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000 and 50,000, and coins of 20, 50, 100,
200 and 500 pesos. At press time, the exchange rate was about COL$2,000 to US$1
and about COL$4,000 to £1. These
rates can fluctuate somewhat, so it's important to check the latest exchange rate at www.xe.com/ucc. CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Unlike
in other Latin-American countries, the U.S. dollar is not widely accepted in Colombia. You can convert your currency
in upscale hotels, at casas de cambio (money-exchange houses), at most banks, and at the airport. It's
not recommended to bring traveler's checks to Colombia. They can be exchanged at some banks and used at high-end
hotels, but usually they aren't accepted elsewhere. Make sure your bank or issuer has a representative in Colombia
before purchasing traveler's checks. ATMs: Cashmachines are easy
to find in urban areas and most medium-to-large towns, though they are almost impossible to come across in rural areas.
Withdrawing money from ATMs is preferable to exchanging money in banks, which charge a sometimes hefty transaction fee.
ATMs also give you the most up-to-date rate of exchange. Thefts at ATMs have been reported, however, so if you are taking
out large sums of money, be sure not to put all your cash in one place (spread the bills among your pockets).
Warning: If you are have trouble with an ATM, do not
accept help from anyone, even if he or she seems friendly and honest. This is the easiest way to wipe out your bank
account. CREDIT
CARDS: Credit cards, particularly Visa and MasterCard, are generally accepted in midrange
and upscale shops, as well as at upscale restaurants and hotels around the country. In rural areas and small towns,
you are unlikely to find establishments that accept credit cards. When booking tours, you're likely to get a better
deal when using cash. WHEN
TO VISIT COLOMBIA PEAK SEASON: In the Andean Region, the dry season falls between December
and March and July and August. Christmas is a particularly festive time in Colombia, though prices often rise and hotel
rooms fill up quickly in Cartagena and the Atlantic Coast, as well as in other popular tourist destinations. During
the Christmas holiday, Easter, and summer vacation, you'll have to book hotels in advance and be prepared to pay a bit
extra. If possible, avoid Colombia in October and November, as these are the rainiest months, and flooding and poor
road conditions are common. CLIMATE: Because of its proximity to the Equator, Colombia's
temperature varies according to altitude rather than season. In high altitudes, days are cool and nights can
dip near the freezing mark. In lowlands, expect a tropical, humid climate with little difference between daytime and
nighttime temperatures. As a general guide, the average temperature in Bogotá is 14°C (57°F), in Cartagena
31°C (87°F), and in Medellin 24°C (75°F). See "Peak Season," above, for information on the
rainiest months. PUBLIC HOLIDAYS: Colombia has more public
holidays than any other nation except Brazil. Usually, if a holiday falls on a Saturday or Sunday, it is celebrated
the following Monday. Public
Holidays are: New Year's
Day (Jan. 1) Epiphany (Jan.
6) St. Joseph's Day
(Mar. 19) Maundy Thursday
and Good Friday (Mar./Apr.) Labor
Day (May 1) Ascension (May) Corpus Christi (May/June) Sacred Heart (June) Day of St. Peter and St. Paul (June 29) Independence Day (Aug. 7) Assumption (Aug. 15) Discovery of America (Oct. 12) All Saint's Day (Nov. 1) Independence of Cartagena (Nov. 11) Immaculate Conception (Dec. 8); and Christmas (Dec. 25)
HEALTH CONCERNS In major cities, you'll have little cause for worry. Water
is generally fine to drink, though cautious travelers may want to stick to bottled water (even though I have been drinking
faucet water with no ill effects). The problem you're most likely to encounter is traveler's
diarrhea, from inexpensive food. Use common sense—avoid
eating unpeeled fruits and vegetables from street vendors, wash your hands frequently, and when trying a new fruit or vegetable,
don't overdo it. Remember to wear sunscreen at all times, even in cool cities like Bogotá. You're
closer to the sun, and you don't want to let sunburn ruin
your vacation. In major cities, health care is adequate and
professional, as long as you stick
to private clinics.
Public clinics tend to have long lines and are usually understaffed and underfunded. If you are visiting the Andean region,
altitude sickness is a possibility. Though it generally
goes away after 2 to 5 days, it may be helpful to bring along Tylenol, Advil, or another over-the-counter painkiller.
Symptoms include headache, shortness of breath, fatigue, nausea, and sleepiness. Try to take it easy the first day or
two to avoid worsening your condition. You might experience altitude sickness in Bogotá or Tunja, or when hiking
in the high Andes. Though no vaccines are required to enter Colombia, it's a good idea to consider getting
vaccinations for hepatitis A and B, typhoid; and yellow fever if you will be visisting the Atlantic or Pacific Coast, the
Amazon region, or any other tropical region. (As a general rule, the more rural your location in the country's tropical
regions, the higher your risk of contracting diseases such as malaria, yellow fever, or cholera). Dengue fever is another
concern in the tropics, though unfortunately there is no preventative vaccine. You should also consider taking
malaria pills if you will be visiting any of the above regions. GETTING THERE by PLANE Planes arrive at El Dorado International Airport (Tel: 1/413-9053; airport code: BOG), located
about 13km (8 miles) from the city center. El Dorado handles most international arrivals and you'll likely fly into
Bogotá. There is a departure tax of $59 (£30) upon exiting the country, though all or at least part of
this is usually included in your ticket. FROM THE U.S.: There
are direct flights from New York, Atlanta, and Miami. Avianca
(Tel: 800/284-2622; www.avianca.com) has several flights
to Bogotá, as well as one (1) direct daily flight to Medellin and Cartagena. American
Airlines (Tel: 800/433-7300; www.american.com) has three (3) daily
flights from Miami to Bogotá, two (2) daily flights to Medellin.
FROM JFK NEW YORK: Delta
(Tel: 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) and Avianca
each offer one (1) daily flight to Bogotá. Taca (Tel: 800/535-8780; www.taca.com) also offer service to Bogotá, though you'll have to connect.
FROM CANADA: Air Canada (Tel: 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca) offers a direct (1) flight between Toronto
and Bogotá several times a week. Otherwise, you'll have to connect in the U.S. using one of the carriers
listed above, which might actually turn out to be a cheaper option. FROM EUROPE & THE U.K.: From Paris: Air France (Tel: 0870/142-4343; www.airfrance.co.uk) offers one
(1) daily direct flight to Bogotá. Iberia (Tel: 0845/601-2854; www.iberia.com) flies direct to Bogotá from Madrid.
Avianca,
American, Continental, and Air France have flights from Madrid to Bogotá connecting
through Paris or in the U.S.; London, Rome, and Frankfurt offer similar options with one (1) connection.
From Australia & New Zealand: You'll be connecting in the U.S.
and possibly Central or South America as
well. Your best bet from Australia is on American Airlines, connecting in Los Angeles en route to Bogotá.
From
New Zealand, some of your better
options are LAN (Tel: 800/221-572; www.lan.com/index-en-un.html) and Air
New Zealand (Tel: 0800/737-000; www.airnz.co.nz), though be prepared for at least two (2) stops. GETTING AROUND by BUS Since Presidente Uribe took office in 2002, road travel in Colombia
has improved dramatically. Most routes between major cities and towns are "safe", though southwest
Colombia can still be dangerous. Ms. Perilla, a woman, states that she takes buses throughout Colombia without incident,
but every traveler's comfort level is different. It's a good idea to check security conditions before you board
a long-distance night bus, especially if you'll be traveling through high-risk area. You can find a bus to almost
any city or town in the country from the Bogotá bus terminal, Terminal de Buses, Bus routes from Medellin, Cali, and
Barranquilla also cover much of the country. Road conditions are generally good, but it's important to remember
that these are two-lane mountain roads, so if there is a back-up or accident, you're stuck in place for at least a couple
of hours. Also during the wet season—particularly October and November—the rain can cause mudslides and
unpredictable road conditions. Unless you're taking a route with irregular departures, it's unnecessary to book in advance, the exception
being if you are traveling during Christmas or a Puente weekend (3-day holiday weekend) during which you might want to consider
purchasing your ticket a day (1) or two (2) in advance. Bus travel isn't as cheap as in nearby Ecuador or Peru;
expect to pay about COL$10,000 (US$5/£2.50) per 100km, but buses are generally comfortable. Tip:
Stick to large buses, since small 'colectivos' are bumpy and uncomfortable. And avoid
taking 'corrientes', which seem to stop every couple of meters. No matter what class of bus, be prepared for
"onboard entertainment" of 'vallenato' and 'ranchera' tunes, as well as ultraviolent movies, at
whatever volume your driver chooses. GETTING AROUND by CAR Renting a car in Colombia is a bad idea. Car accidents are one of the top causes of death in Colombia.
In urban areas, Colombians tend to be aggressive and careless behind the wheel, often neither following street signs or traffic
lights nor giving pedestrians the right of way. On rural roads and mountain passes, winding roads and near head-on collisions
with trucks, as well as the occasional livestock crossing, can be intimidating at best. Public transportation options
are safer, cheaper, and much less likely to be stopped by guerillas or paramilitaries than a fancy family-size car.
Some upscale hotels offer a chauffeur/car service, which can be rented by the hour or by the day, but don't expect
any great deals. If, after hearing all this, you are still determined to drive in Colombia, expect to pay at least COL$102,250
(US$51/£26) a day. Make sure you and the care are insured, and be aware that gas doesn't come cheap in Colombia—we're
talking COL$7,158 (US$3.60/£1.80) a gallon. Some companies that rent cars in Colombia are: I can personally provide chauffeur/car serviceto anyone interested,
through my connections throughout the Town of Obando and the region. TIPS ON DINING You won't be hungry in Colombia. Though every region has its own specialties, you're
never far from a plate of beans, beef, plantains, and rice. Food is good, hearty, and generally cheap, if not particularly
varied. For gourmands, major
cities such as Bogotá, Medellin, and Cartagena also offer a huge range of upscale, gourmet, and international options.
Some typical dishes to look for on
your menu include: Ajiaco (chick soup with potatoes, avocado, corn, and capers); Bandeja Paisa
(rice, avocado, salad); Chicharrón (minced
meat, egg, plantain, and yuca); Sancocho (plaintain, yuca, potato
and beef, chicken, or fish soup); Lechona (stuffed baked
pig); Arepa (flat corn bread often topped with cheese or butter); Tamales
(corn dough, chicken, and vegetables cooked and served in plantain leaves). Hamburguesas
y Perros (hamburgers "stuffed" and hotdogs "stuffed"
and equally delicious). Espagueties (spaghetti with
ground beef. surprisingly good! Tinto (black coffee),
is Colombia's most popular beverage and can be enjoyed at anytime, just about anywhere. Other popular drinks
are beer, aguardiente (the licorice-flavored national liquor), hot chocolate, and soda products. Bottled water (or bagged) water can usually be found at most stores and
street stands. Thanks to its tropical climate and fertile soil, Colombia 'has countless
exotic fruit juices' such as guanabana (soursop), lulo, maracuya (passion fruit), and tomate
de arbol (tree tomato). Wine is not particularly
popular in Colombia, and Colombian wine on the whole leave a lot to be desired. However, upscale restaurants and grocery
stores generally offer high-quality Argentine and Chilean varieties.
TIPS ON SHOPPING: Handicrafts are relatively cheap and easy to find in Colombia, though the deals aren't
as good as you get in Ecuador, Bolivia, and Peru. In urban areas, you're likely to find the best bargains
in city centers; handicrafts stores in upscale shopping malls charge at least double the price, though you're generally
guaranteed quality. In small towns and rural areas, you can expect to find more authentic and regional crafts at fair
prices. At markets and such, you may be able to bargain somewhat, though don't expect a price to drop more than
a couple of thousand pesos. Aside from
handicrafts, Colombians are serious about clothing. Bogotá, Cartagena, and Cali are a shopaholic's dream
come true. At shopping centers and boutiques in more upscale areas, clothing is generally high quality albeit a bit
expensive (prices are comparable to stores in the States such as the Limited and Banana Republic). In the most upscale
city zones and shopping centers, you'll be greeted by the likes of Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, and other designers.
Shoes and leather handbags, as well as gold and emerald jewelry, are popular buys and can be purchased at decent prices; it's
best to ask around to find the spots with the best bargains.
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